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DIY electronic Speed test
A DIY replica of electronic
speed test game, manufactured by Coinline in Finland. A
similar game is also manufactured by DPS-Promatic in Italy.
These games became very popular in Finland in 90s because they were
part of a tv-show competition. The speed test game is still fun and
addictive. You must press the buttons as they lit up. The speed
gradually increases. See links to videos from below to understand
how it works.
- You can select between speed test and memory test
- Easy and hard modes for speed test. Hard speed test is the
same game but it begins from 100 points. This way you can skip
the slow beginning when trying to beat new high score
- Sound effects as in original game. You can select between old
and new version (old speed games had higher pitch)
- High scores saved, separately for speed test and memory test
- Speed test has 'memory' or 'stack' of 50 presses. So you can
press the buttons a bit late, as long as the sequence is correct
- Demo mode
- Instructions on screen when you switch power on
See this youtube video
of the game in action. Another
video which has the latest version of electronics.
The circuit is based on PIC16F15355 micro controller. Piezo buzzer
and button lights are driven with ULN2003 Darlington array.
7-segment display is driven directly from micro controller pins. It
is possible as long as the used display has high efficiency LEDs.
The display types listed in BOM work well. Switches connect to
ground and their readout uses PIC internal pull-ups.
The PCB uses only though-hole components so it is easy to build by
beginners. It is 2-side PCB with plated through holes so it is
easiest to order the bare PCB from factory. See below section Getting parts. The board has screw
terminals for connecting wires. It is advisable to solder the screw
terminals to bottom side of board, like shown in picture above. Then
you have easy access to those even when the board is attached to
front panel of enclosure.
Assembly drawing and bill of materials
nopeustesti_v1_hw.zip PCB design
files, made with Eagle 5.12.0
Manufacturing files in Gerber 274-X format
3d-model in IDF and STEP formats
Firmware source code and compiled .HEX available below. Compiled
with CCS compiler version 5.081.
- Order the bare PCB from PCBWay using this
link. Price is ca. $13 for 10 pcs with cheapest shipping.
- Parts for the PCB from e.g. TME in Poland, here
is shared cart.
- You can also get some other needed parts from TME. Buttons,
enclosure, power supply and PC sheet, here
is shared cart.
- M6 DIN 603 mushroom head square neck bolts, red paint, 6.3 mm
and 4.8 mm Faston connectors, hook-up wire
- You can get the buttons from eBay cheaper than TME. Search
'arcade button led 45mm', or
use this link
I have used case aluminum enclosure Hammond 1550J.
Design mimics the features of original game.
Enclosure with holes waiting to be painted. Holes were made with
milling machine. Artwork will be placed under transparent PC sheet
which is fixed with mushroom head bolts as in original.
Painted enclosure and parts which will go inside. Picture above
shows 60 mm arcade buttons, but you can use smaller ones. The
original game uses 45 mm buttons.
Here are electronics parts for new version. The buttons above are
from TME, and they have 45 mm diameter.
Rear panel has power switch and IEC mains connector with integrated
Inside view. I really recommend to use external, approved mains
supply and not place it inside the enclosure. When there's only +12V
DC voltage in the enclosure the risk of electric shock is greatly
reduced. Picture above still shows old version of electronics which
is split to two boards.
Finished game. You can download the artwork below in .pdf format by
clicking the picture. Original
Inkscape svg -file available here. The used font is K22
Modifications and improvements
If you are using adjustable power supply, you can set the
voltage to slightly higher, ca. 13.2 V. This way you can get full
12 V to button lights, because the reverse protection diode D1 and
Darlington array ULN2003 will cause ca. 1.2 V voltage drop.
Alternatively, you can replace D1 with Schottky -type e.g. 1N5815
and IC2 with MOSFET -type e.g. TBD62003APG. You could even replace
D1 with just jumper wire but then you must be careful about
correct polarity. However, difference of one volt is not
significant to button illumination brightness. The used LED type
has much bigger effect, see below.
You get better contrast to score display if you use red or smoked
display lens. It also makes display easier to read in daylight.
The micro switches delivered with the big arcade buttons are usually
crap. The are stiff and have poor contact. It is advisable to
replace those with quality, low force micro switches. E.g. 75
gram Cherry switches or 50
gram E-Switch switches work well. With these, a skilled player
can easily gain tens of points to high score.
Also the LEDs delivered with arcade buttons are usually quite dim.
Good in dusk, but in daylight they could be brighter. I have tested
many types of LEDs and currently the best known LEDs look like this. These LEDs can be even
too bright indoors, therefore firmware v0.92 adds possibility to
adjust light brightness. You can get those e.g. from eBay.
You get best results when you use same color LED as the button
color. When using white leds the color will be pale. More
information on the subject from my LED comparison.
kair.us/ projects/ nopeustesti/
page created 7.8.2013
last updated 22.10.2019 firstname.lastname@example.org